American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru—Cordillera Huayhuash, Ninashanca, Yerupajá and Jirishanca West Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1983

Ninashanca, Yerupajá and Jirishanca West Face. The Klub Wysokogórski Zakopane expedition was composed of Lech Korniszewski, leader, Maciej Pawlikowski, Zdzislaw Kiszela and Boguslaw Probulski. After acclimatizing in the Cordillera Blanca, they established Base Camp on Jahuacocha. From July 3 to 5 Korniszewski, Pawlikowski and Probulski climbed Ninashanca’s west spur, previously climbed by Brian Hall and Alan Rouse in 1978. They had some 3500 feet of difficult rock and mixed climbing ending with seven rope-lengths of ice. On July 10 and 11, Kiszela, Pawlikowski and Probulski climbed the northwest ridge of Yerupajá (6634 meters, 21,765 feet), ascending on ice to the right of and parallel to the rock ridge. On July 16 Pawlikowski and Probulski made what is probably a new route on the west face of Jirishanca (6126 meters, 20,099 feet), to the left of the Cassin route, which they joined in the very upper part. After a mixed section, they climbed 3000 feet of 60° ice amid hanging séracs. After joining the west spur (Cassin) route, they found old ropes. After a 13-hour alpine-style ascent, they made fifteen rappels down the west face during the night.

JÓZEF Nyka, Editor, Taternik, Poland

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