Tsurup, Direct Southwest Face. The route climbed by Juan Antonio Lorenzo and me started up the southwest face the same as that climbed by Fear, Lahr, Malataux and Ridgeway in 1972, (A.A.J1973, pages 325-7) but where they traversed upwards to the left two-thirds of the way up the face to meet the west ridge some 200 meters below the summit, we kept straight on up in a direct line to the summit. On July 24 we started up the couloir a little to the right of the center of the face, but rockfall drove us back. We started a second time on August 2 and followed up the face, not deviating at all from the direct line. The climbing was mixed with some ice slopes up to 75° and even 90° interrupted by rock of UIAA IV to V+ . The climb took us eleven hours. We had to bivouac on the summit and suffered some frostbite on hands and feet. We descended the same route, making seven 200-foot rappels.

Francisco José Palacios, Escuela Castellana de Alta Montaña, Spain