Pukajirka Central, Northeast Face. Our expedition was probably the third to climb Pukajirka Central. We made a new route, the northeast face. We were Antonio Camozzi, Marino Giacometti, Antonio Magnanoni, Gian Battista Scanabessi, Dr. Annibale Bonicelli, Adalberto Frigerio and I as leader. We approached from Pomabamba via the Quebrada Jankapampa. We had the following camps: Base Camp, I and II at 12,150, 14,450 and 17,725 feet. Camp I was still below the very broken glacier. We fixed 1300 feet of rope to let the three porters carry loads. On July 7 Giacometti and Scanabessi reached the summit (6014 meters, 19,734 feet). They climbed the last 1300 feet in six hours and descended the same in ten rappels, which took four hours. The climbing was very difficult; the final pitch onto the summit ridge was of 70° ice

Piero Nava, Club Alpino Italiano