American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru—Cordillera Blanca, Pisco Oeste, Chopicalqui, and Chacraraju

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1983

Pisco Oeste, Chopicalqui, and Chacraraju. The Alpine Club Impol of Slovenska Bistrica expedition was composed of Ivan Šturm, Marjan Frešer, Francek Knez, Janko Korent, Matjaž Peckovnik, Milan Romih, Dani Tic and Dr. Tone Žuntar. On June 4 Knez and Frešer made a new route on the south face of Pisco Oeste. This was later repeated by Italians. On June 8 Knez and Freser made a new route on the south face of Chacraraju Oeste to the eastern foresummit. On June 11 and 12 this same pair made a new direct route on Chopicalqui’s 3500-foot-high west face. On June 21 Knez, Frešer and Tic climbed the 1972 Japanese Chacraraju Oeste’s south face, straight up the ice bulge to the left of the summit. That same day Peckovnik and Romih repeated the 1976 Japanese route on the south face, which reached the summit ridge to the right of the summit. On each of the Chacraraju climbs, bivouacs were made low on the face.

Franci Savenc, Planinska Zveza Slovenije, Yugoslavia

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