American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru—Cordillera Blanca, Ocshapalca, South Face, Carás I, South Face and Other Peaks

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1983

Ocshapalca, South Face, Carás I, South Face and Other Peaks. Our group of Swiss were Vincent Banderet, Rafaël Rabout, André Duffey, Paula Scherer and I. In Huaraz we were joined by three Canadians, Jocelyn Ouellet and Isabelle and Thierry Legouis. Aside from classic climbs like Pisco, Huascaràn, Huantsán Norte and Artesonraju, Banderet, Ouellet and I put up a new route on the south face of Ocshapalca on June 12. Our route was of technical ice with two vertical sections on the far left of the face. We tried Chacraraju Este but were turned back 350 feet from the summit by a storm. On July 28 Banderet and I made a route on the south face of Carás I, a 20-hour mixed climb which ended on the right summit. We had to descend the east ridge by moonlight and got back to camp at midnight. Thierry Legouis fell 125 feet down a sérac on Huascarán and was evacuated in a rescue that lasted three days. He has fully recovered.

Bernard Balmat, Club Alpin Suisse

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