AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

South America, Peru—Cordillera Blanca, Uruashraju, Northwest Face, Kashan Este, Northeast Face, and Other Peaks

Uruashraju, Northwest Face, Kashan Este, Northeast Face, and Other Peaks. Our expedition was composed of Pete du Preez, Tim and Janet Hughes, Jonathan Levy, Michael Scott, Dr. Robin Sandell, Antonio da Cruz, Des Watkins, Mrs. Felicity Eggelston, my 15-year-old son Alistair Schoon and me. We drove to the Pitec roadhead at the entrance to the Quebrada Qelkaywanka, joined by our Peruvian porter, Emilio Angeles. An easy two-day walk up the valley with equipment and food on 18 donkeys brought us to our first Base Camp at 14,100 feet below Laguna Tullparaju. For acclimatization we made the following climbs: Jatunmontepuncu (5415 meters, 17,766 feet) from a subcamp at 15,575 feet via southwest ridge on June 16 by du Preez, Sandell, A.F. and W.A. Schoon, Scott; Chopiraju (5475 meters, 17,962 feet) from a 16,400-foot subcamp via west shoulder on June 18 by T. Hughes, Levy; and Wamanripa (5243 meters, 17,530 feet) from a 15,425-foot subcamp via east slope and ridge on June 21 by Eggleston, J. Hughes, Sandell, Watkins. Then bad weather severely affected climbing done from the first Base Camp. Our attempt on Chinchey was stopped by high winds and snow. Unsettled weather persisted until we completed the traverse from Laguna Tullparaju to our second Base Camp in the Quebrada Rajuqolta. The traverse involved climbing over the high pass between San Juan and Kimarumi onto the Quebrada Shallap icefall, crossing the Wamashraju ridge west of P 5406 and into the Quebrada Rajuqolta. From a subcamp on the San Juan-Kimarumi col at 17,225 feet on June 28 Levy and T. Hughes climbed San Juan (5843 meters, 19,170 feet) via the northwest ridge while du Preez and Sandell climbed the east ridge of Kimarumi (5459 meters, 17,910 feet). On June 30 du Preez, Sandell, Scott and I climbed P 5406 (17,737 feet) from the 16,000-foot col via the north glacier and northeast ridge. On July 2 Levy soloed from the 14,100-foot Rajuqolta Base Camp the east ridge of P 5377 (17,641 feet) on the Kashan Ridge. On July 3 du Preez and Scott climbed via the east ridge P 5200 (17,061 feet) on the Wamashraju ridge from a 16,075-foot subcamp while J. Hughes, Sandell, my son and I climbed Yawarraju (5675 meters, 18,619 feet) from a subcamp at 17,400 feet via the northwest ridge and then traversed to Rurec (5700 meters, 18,701 feet). T. Hughes and Levy climbed Huantsán (6395 meters, 20,981 feet) via the 1952 route with four bivouacs, reaching the summit on July 7. Scott, my son and I made a new route on Uruashraju (5735 meters, 18,815 feet) from a 16,750-foot subcamp north of Uruashraju Norte. We climbed over Uruashraju Norte’s northwest spur and by the northwest face to the summit. On July 10 Levy made a new route on Kashan Este (5723 meters, 18,777 feet) from the Rajuqolta Base Camp via the northeast face.

André Schoon, South Africa