American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Greenland, Glacier de France Region, Schweizerland, East

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1983

Glacier de France Region, Schweizerland, East Greenland. Our expedition was flown by helicopter from Angmagssalik to Base Camp at the junction of the Pourquoi Pas Glacier and the Glacier de France at 66°38'N, 36°30'W. We divided into three groups. Ferruccio Svaluto Moreolo, Marino Di Lenardo, Stefano Sinuello and I crossed the Femstjemen and the Kristian Glacier, where we climbed two virgin peaks northeast of Quervain Bjerg. Svaluto Moreolo and I on July 2 and 3 made a 33-hour ascent of P 3270 (10,728 feet), which we have proposed should be named “Alpe Adria.” We climbed the northwest face, which had pitches up to 65°. The next highest peak of the group, P 3000 (9843 feet) was climbed by Di Lenardo and Sinuello in seven hours by the south face. The second group, composed of “free climbers,” crossed the Pourquoi Pas Glacier to climb two peaks that divide that glacier from the Glacier de France. P 2350 (7710 feet) resembled the Badile. On July 1 Maurizio Dall’Omo, Gianni Pais De Gabriel and Daniele Zandegiacomo took 23 hours to climb the very difficult 3500-foot west face. That same day Gigi Dal Pozzo and Oliviero Olivier climbed the difficult south spur of the same peak. On July 4 Olivier and Pais De Gabriel climbed the tower, P 1900 (5234 feet), west of P 2350 by its northwest buttress. The third group climbed in the mountains between the Champs Elysées and Pourquoi Pas Glaciers, where between July 2 and 5 they climbed five previously unclimbed peaks: P 2080 (6824 feet), P 2050 (6726 feet), P 2010 (6595 feet), P 2000 (6562 feet) and P 1750 (5840 feet); and P 2010 (6595 feet), which lies northeast of Lauper Bjerg.

Gianni Pais Becher, Club Alpino Italiano

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