American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Arctic, Loki, Asgard, Baffin Island

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1983

Loki, Asgard, Baffin Island. Our Australian Warren Lee, and I arrived at Summit Lake, in Auyuittuq National Park, on the last day of a two-week fine spell. From then on the weather continued to be generally poor with barely five fully fine days during the twenty-eight days of July that we spent in the area. However in this time we managed three ascents. The only ascent of Mount Loki since Pat Baird’s 1966 first ascent was made via the south face. This new route, rated V, 5.10, followed a single crack and comer system for 2000 feet of flawless orange granite, taking some twenty hours of climbing time. Descent was made under stormy conditions in seven rappels down the north face. We also climbed the original Swiss route on Mount Asgard; superb granite climbing under a cloudless sky in an incomparable, remote alpine setting. The last ascent was of a previously unclimbed peak (MR 065820, 1:250000 Pang- nirtung) at the head of the Tuperaut Glacier, east of Summit Lake. We followed a classic alpine arête, (IV 5.9), directly to the summit, once again finishing in foul weather.

Robert Staveley Parker, New Zealand Alpine Club

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