American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Rockies, Mount Robson, Emperor Face; North Twin, North Face, Assiniboine, East Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1983

Mount Robson, Emperor Face; North Twin, North Face; Assiniboine, East Face. Tony Dick and I climbed a new line in the Emperor Face in August 1981. We went left of the Stumps-Logan line. There was much hard ice climbing, much rockfall and rock climbing up to 5.9, A3. In July 1982 Urs Kallen, Tim Friesen and I attempted to repeat the Lowe-Jones route on North Twin’s north face. We were four days on the face but were unable to do the final wall as it was streaming with water caused by unusually warm conditions. Instead we traversed left to the ridge and followed this to the summit. We then crossed the icefield to the highway. We believe this is the most difficult face yet climbed in the Canadian Rockies. It still awaits a second ascent eight years after the first. Tony Dick and I made the first ascent of the impressive wall, the east face of Assiniboine, in September. The route took three days in perfect weather and is rated 5.9, A2. Snow and ice conditions were good at that time of the year but should be better in the spring or summer. The previous route in this vicinity takes a line much farther left and should more correctly be referred to as the East Buttress. (A.A.J., 1970, page 148.)

David Cheesmond, Alpine Club of Canada

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