Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Three New Routes. In October, Chester Dreiman and I climbed three new routes here on consecutive days. The first climb, Escape Artist (IV, 5.11) scales a large buttress on the left side of SOB Gully. The next day we climbed the Checkerboard Wall (IV, 5.10 + ), a route I had always hoped to do someday. This unlikely route ascends the center of the smooth wall to the right of Maiden Voyage. Criss-crossing bands of white pegmatite make the route obvious. Loose rock, poor protection, and getting benighted gave us a few exciting moments! The third climb, fortunately, was considerably easier. Leisure Climb, at 5.9 – is a good introductory route to the Black Canyon. Only six pitches long, well protected, and on very good rock, it ascends the wall on the right at the base of the Cruise Gully.

Edward Webster