American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Utah, Castleton Tower and Monster Tower, Wingate Spires

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1983

Castleton Tower and Monster Tower, Wingate Spires. In October and early November Chester Dreiman and I climbed new routes on two Wingate Spires. On Castleton Tower, between the Kor-Ingalls and the North Chimney routes, we did Star Dust Cowboy (III, 5.11, Al), featuring a 5.11 crack and a long bolt ladder. The Arrowhead (5.10) is a two-pitch variation of this route. A week later we made the second ascent of 650-foot-high Monster Tower via a new eight-pitch 5.10 route up the south face, Monster of Rock. Layton Kor & party made the first ascent in 1963. We were benighted on the summit, and rappelled Kor’s route in the dark. Luckily the rappel ropes only jammed once!

Edward Webster

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