North America, United States, Utah, Climbs in Canyonlands National Park

Publication Year: 1983.

Climbs in Canyonlands National Park. Jeff Achey and I free-climbed the last aid route on Moses, a 500-foot sandstone tower in Taylory Canyon. Ironically, the route, though 5.11, was the easiest of the three routes on the tower. In the spring Charlie Fowler and Chip Chace had freed the Beckey route on the north face. The route had a pitch of 5.12 and three pitches of 5.10 and 5.11. A week later Kent Lugbill and I made the first free ascent of the 450-foot Candlestick Tower. Our route on the east face required seven pitches, many of them short. The hardest was a 5.10 wide-hands crack. Over Thanksgiving Charlie Fowler and I made the first free ascent of the Washerwoman in Lathrop Canyon, via a new route called In Search of Suds (5.10) on the right side of the south face. The tower had received only one previous ascent, in 1967, according to the summit register. We also climbed Crack Wars, a four-pitch 5.11 crack climb on the Nuns, near Castleton Tower.

Glenn Randall