American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, California—Yosemite, Tuolumne Meadows

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1983

Tuolumne Meadows. In Tuolumne Meadows, face-climbing standards are being pushed higher and higher. John Bacher has almost singlehandedly rewritten the rules in an area where the bolt is the most standard protection device; many of his climbs involve 5.10 moves with little or no protection, and most have not seen second ascents. A number of underground guides have appeared to this area which has no official guidebook, and information is usually available at the Yosemite Mountaineering School to help visiting climbers find certain routes. Here are some of the best new routes done in 1982; Harlot (II, 5.10 – ). Four pitches to the left of Hoodwink, climbed by Alan Bartlett and Alan Roberts. Goldfinger (I, 5.12). John Bacher finally solved this previously attempted problem, an overhanging finger crack immediately left of the Cooler. Hurricane Betsy. (I, 5.11 + ). Climbed by John Bacher, this is a thin crack out a roof on the extreme left side of Low Profile Dome. Steep Thrills. (I, 5.10 + ). A bolted, two-pitch face climb to the left of the Golfer’s route on Low Profile Dome, climbed by Bacher. King Midas (II 5.9 + ). Between Peter, Peter and Magical Mystery Tour on Fairview Dome; two pitches lead to the belay bolts at the end of the third pitch of Peter, Peter, climbed by Alan Bartlett and Gail Wilts. Lamb Chops (III, 5.10). On Lamb Dome, three pitches lead up the smooth face to the right of Hip Boots before joining On the Lamb; climbed by Bill Critchlow and Alan Bartlett. Black Magic (III, 5.11+). This is the black streak to the right of the Yawn on Medlicott Dome. Bacher again. Bacher-Yerian Route (III, 5.11). This is one of the steepest routes in the meadows, and ascends the black streak to the right of Shambles, put up by John Bacher and Dave Yerian. You Asked for It (III, 5.10). Another black streak to the right of the Bacher-Yerian route, climbed by Bacher and Ron Peers. Blacklight (II, 5.10). Two pitches up a black streak in the center of the West Farthing Wall, climbed by Alan Bartlett and Terri Counts.

Alan Bartlett, Yosemite Mountaineering School

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