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North America, United States, California—Pinnacles National Monument, Climbs

Climbs in Pinnacles National Monument. At least three routes were added to the monument this year. Cleaver Buttress (F6) lies on a formation above and behind the Machete Ridge. It ascends a water chute to the base of a chimney. The second pitch ascends the chimney to gain an arête, which is followed to the summit. On the Discovery Wall, Plague (5.9) climbs the crack and black face to the left of Trauma. Most interesting of the new routes is Lava Falls (5.8) that ascends the Balconies Cliff to the left of Shake And Bake (A.A.J., 1977.) There are 14 protection bolts, some which were used as rest points immediately after placement. Unfortunately, Lava Falls has already lived up to its name and inflicted a serious rockfall injury. Let the belayer beware. A number of “NADS” participated in these climbs including W.V. Graham Matthews III, Peter Ruben, Keith Vandevere and myself.

Jack Holmgren, NADS Alpine Club