American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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Homer's Nose, Where Eagles Dare

California, Sierra Nevada

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year: 1981
  • Publication Year: 1983

In July 1981, Patrick Paul and I completed another four-pitch route on the southwest face. Where Eagles Dare lies a couple of hundred yards west (left) of the original south face route (The Dance of Topo-Usha, 1980). It follows an obvious crack-and-flake system just left of a long, awesome right-facing dihedral. The crack on the first pitch is formed by a 200-foot extremely expanding flake (hence the name). 3 bolts. (Grade III, 5.9, Al.)

– Dick Leversee

Editor's note: In 2019, Dave Clark and Hayden Miller free climbed Where Eagles Dare. Miller wrote, "After some effort to clean the cracks of moss and remove a particularly dangerous-feeling detached flake, we were able to free climb the route at 5.11+. The second pitch is a world-class granite dihedral, which steadily narrows from three inches down to nothing over the course of 40+ meters. The third pitch features a very fun, bolt-protected traverse to link discontinuous crack features." Clark and Miller also added a route to the left, starting on the same first pitch as Where Eagles Dare, then following a left-facing flake to a belay, with a crux third pitch of bolt-protected face climbing: A Bridge Too Far (5.11). 

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