North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Finger Dome, South Face, 1981

Publication Year: 1983.

Finger Dome, South Face, 1981. When making the hike from near Wishon Dam to Crown Valley, the usual route to Tehepite Dome and the Obelisk, the seemingly misplaced rock formation of Finger Dome is a magnet to the eye. Not knowing of any visitation by rock climbers, the dome’s steep south face came to mind as the perfect idea for a late fall (1981) weekend. Fresh snow had already fallen well below timberline. A short hike from the road brought Rick Nolting and me to a campsite in pines where we studied the 700-foot face with some concern. It appeared all reasonable routes would end on a mid-face pillar several hundred feet short of the summit. Yet a climber must investigate possible weaknesses in the blank slabs not detectable to the distant eye. In the morning we stood at the base wondering where to begin. The possibilities seemed impossible or unappealing until we investigated a great chimney which split the center of the pillar. Two pitches of serious climbing—some of it wonderful stemming exercise—brought us to a place where we were almost certain the climb would end. But no, an easy ledge angled rightward above the big drop. The ledge ended in a blank wall, but from an isolated ledge tiny holds and cracks offered hope. After an unprotected aid move from a tied-off knife- blade, I was able to move upward on small holds, fairly desperate for a few minutes. On the next lead Rick solved a continuing crack problem and the leftward traverse of a steep, holdless slab. Moderate climbing on a distinct rib continued, then slabs took us to the summit. (Grade III, 5.8 or 5.9.)

Fred Beckey