American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, The Parapet, South Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1983

The Parapet, South Face. Our unofficial naming of the imposing central crag of the Mount Bago jumble above Junction Meadow along Bubbs Creek came after a most enjoyable frolic on the solid rock of this formation. In May, Rick Nolting and I climbed a central line. A long chimney-gully system led to a headwall where Rick led the hardest pitch—a vertical and sometimes overhanging system of flakes. The moves would be classic anywhere, and the stopper protection was good if strenuous to place while “hanging on.” The climbing drifted onto a long, easy ramp to the main comer, then became serious again: we took a zigzagging line up a headwall, then a leftward traverse across small bathtub holds to a shallow crack system. After the highest point was eventually reached, the descent was made by a long snow gully to the west. A few exposed rappels allowed us to escape from the walls. The climb, as well as adjacent new-route possibilities, is to be recommended. (Grade III, 5.8.)

Fred Beckey

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