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North America, United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Nooksack Tower, Northeast Couloir and East Ridge

Nooksack Tower, Northeast Couloir and East Ridge. On May 30 Chuck Gerson and I made this climb in one long day (18 hours) from our camp on the ridge above Price Lake (5800 feet). Our route continued up the ice ribbon where the main couloir narrows down, and the original route traverses right. We had one good pitch of ice before the angle eased off and then it was snow the rest of the way to the notch. From the notch there were probably eight pitches on rock. The rock was quite reasonable except for one pitch on the south face. The descent found us rappeling down fantastic ice gullies on the 1946 route. Here was the ice we had hoped to find on our route. About 10 rappels put us back in the main couloir, which we climbed down by headlamp. (IV 5.7.)

Jim Nelson