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North America, United States, Alaska, Broken Tooth

Broken Tooth. “Broken Tooth” is the unofficial name that Alaskan mountaineers have applied to P 9050 on the divide between the Buckskin and Coffee Glaciers, 20 miles southeast of Denali. On May 7 Bob Plumb and I made the first ascent of Broken Tooth, climbing the southeast ridge. Our route from the Coffee Glacier ascended a 45° snow slope for 2000 feet before coming to grips with the main technical difficulties. The upper southeast ridge rises for another 2000 feet at an average of 55° and comprises difficult mixed climbing. We made 24 belays, placed five bolts to anchor belays and rappels and bivouacked three times on the upper ridge. The technical part of the climb required four days. (VI, 5.8, A3.)

Curt Haire