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North America, United States, Alaska, P 11,300, West Face Couloir, West Fork of Ruth Glacier

P 11,300, West Face Couloir, West Fork of Ruth Glacier. Bob Crawford and I flew to the Ruth Glacier on April 17. After several days of storm and reconnaissance, we climbed a hidden couloir on the west face of P 11,300. The couloir was 2500 feet long, with 1500 feet of continuous, undulating ice, averaging between 55° and 80° in steepness. From the top of the couloir we followed the southwest ridge for several pitches to descend the southeast ridge. The climb occurred between April 30 and May 3. During the same period Donnie Black and Scotty Wade climbed an obvious couloir to the left of our couloir, directly to the summit.

Daniel Cauthorn*

*Recipient of an AAC Mountaineering Fellowship Grant.