American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, China, Bogda Tien Shan

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1982

Bogda, Tien Shan. Our expedition with general leader Iwao Nakai climbed Bogda (5445 meters, 17,864 feet), the highest of the eastern Tien Shan, on June 9 and 10. All nine climbing members, K. Miyagawa, M. Nakazima, T. Fujibayashi, E. Ohno, S. Yamada, A. Mishima, H. Nose, S. Kaneko and I as climbing leader, and two cameramen, T. Kazihara and A. Shinya, reached the top. We scaled the northeast ridge of the main peak, which was very difficult, especially from the col to the top. Icy, snowy, rocky walls rose up at 45° to 50°, and so we fixed 4000 feet of rope on that continuously steep slope; thus many men and women could reach the top. Base Camp was established on May 27 on the north side of the North Bogda Glacier after two approach days from Lake Tien-chi, northeast of Urumchi. Camp I (13,000 feet) was set up on the 30th under the icefall and Camp II (15,425 feet) on the col of the northeast ridge. On June 10 Mitsuko Shirouzu, a very slim lady and one of our non-climbing members, walking down to Base Camp from Camp I, suddenly fell 65 feet into a narrow crevasse. Our rescue members went down in a hurry from Camp I and the summit and after two hours we began to try to save her. Our thinnest member could descend only some 25 feet. After four hours we could not hear her voice at all. Thus we lost her.

Mrs. Kyoko Endo, Kyoto Mountaineering Association, Japan

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