American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, China, Siguniang, North Face Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1982

Siguniang, North Face Attempt. Our expedition spent three weeks in the small, isolated Siguniang Range in western Sichuan province during the post-monsoon season. The members of our trip included Jim Kanzler, Jim Donini, Kim Schmitz and me as climbers and Greg Thomsen. After arriving in Chengdu and making final preparations with the help of the Chinese Mountaineering Association people, we departed on a three- day minibus ride to the village of Zelun. From Zelun it was a pleasant 12-mile, one-day approach to establish Base Camp at 12,000 feet and to reach our objective, Siguniang (6250 meters, 20,506 feet). Three days later, High Camp at 15,000 feet was fully supplied so that we could start climbing. We attempted a new route on the north face in semi-alpine style. The route was up a buttress that blended into the face as we gained altitude. After eleven days above High Camp, six days on the final push, we were turned back by a combination of colder temperatures than were expected and very high winds, which slowed progress. The high point was between 17,500 and 18,000 feet.

Jack Edward Tackle

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