Asia, Pakistan, Yukshin Gardan Sar Attempt

Publication Year: 1982.

Yukshin Gardan Sar Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Shigenobu Otake, leader, Tetsuya Nisiyama, Hiroshi Hori, Kaneyuki Sugimoto, Kosuke Kamio and me. We made the approach from Nagar to Temporary Base Camp (13,775 feet) on the Kunyang Glacier from June 6 to 14. Base Camp (14,275 feet), south of Bularung Sar, was occupied on June 23. We continued to the east with camps at 15,750, 17,000 and 19,200 feet. Camps A and B were placed on the Upper Yazgil Glacier on July 22 and 23. We placed Camp C at 20,675 feet on July 27, southwest of Yukshin Gardan Sar (7530 meters, 24,115 feet). We made a summit attempt on July 28, reaching 22,300 feet). We were hampered by bad weather and were pinned for three-and-a-half days in Camp B. The Upper Yazgil Glacier route was too long an approach. We should have gone up the Yutmaru Glacier.

Masahiro Fujino, Jindai Mountain Club, Japan