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Asia, Pakistan, Uzan Brakk, 1980

Uzan Brakk, 1980. Our expedition was made up of Dr. Will Taps- field, Tony Saunders and me as leader. We left Skardu on July 10 and arrived at the Ogre Base Camp on July 21. We helped rescue a Japanese climber from 150 feet down a crevasse at 19,500 feet on Latok IV, where he had been for nine days. I got stomach trouble and remained at Base Camp, doing a botanical survey for the Royal Botanic Gardens in Edinburgh. Saunders and Tapsfield climbed Uzun Brakk by the northwest buttress alpine style with three bivouacs on the ascent and the same number on the descent back to Advance Base Camp on the Upper Uzun Brakk Glacier. The 4500-foot-high route was all ice, going through an ice couloir (Scottish Grade IV/V) into a snow basin and with poor conditions on the summit ridge.

A. Cairns Dickson, Edinburgh University Mountaineering Club