American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Hidden Peak

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1982

Hidden Peak. An 11-man Japanese expedition led by Masahiro Maezawa climbed Hidden Peak (Gasherbrum I) by its first-ascent route on the southeast ridge. After reconnaissance, they left the mountain for nine days in early July to assist in the rescue of the Japanese party on Gasherbrum IV. Camp IV was placed at 22,650 feet on July 21. On August 3 at 2:30 A.M. Hideaki Azuma, Kozo Shimotori and Yasuo Toji left this camp for the summit. At four P.M. Toji retreated from 25,250 feet and the other two went on to the summit (8068 meters, 26,470 feet). They bivouacked at 25,250 feet and returned to Camp IV the next day.

Hidden Peak (Gasherbrum I), Northwest Ridge Attempt. Our group was Javier Alonso, Manuel Martinez and I. We established Base Camp on June 26 at 17,000 feet on a moraine of the Abruzzi Glacier. We hoped to place a camp on the plateau at the foot of the northwest face and to climb alpine-style from there. Bad weather kept us from establishing Camp I at 19,850 feet but we did make a dump at 18,700 feet. Finally on July 12 we placed Camp I and set about preparing to attack the unclimbed northwest ridge to the snowfield used by Messner and Habeler for their bivouac and then to follow their route to the top. A first attempt got us to Gasherbrum La at 21,325 feet but bad weather turned us back. On August 2 Alonso and Martinez climbed all the difficult ridge of mixed climbing to reach 23,625 feet (7200 meters) but had to turn back because of the bad snow conditions and bad weather.

Antonio Trabado, Club Alpino Malicioso de Madrid, Spain

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