American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Broad Peak

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1982

Broad Peak. Enric Pujol, Manuel Hernández, Sergio Escalera, Agustí Sanabria and I as leader left Skardu with 26 low-altitude porters on June 25 and got to Base Camp at Concordia on July 5. We made camps at 18,700, 20,675, 22,950 and 24,450 feet. In 59 days on the mountain, 40 had bad weather. Pujol and Hernández reached the summit of Broad Peak (8047 meters, 26,400 feet) at four P.M. on August 5, after a bivouac in the col. This was the fourth ascent. They had followed the route of the Poles, who got as high as the col, a variant of the 1957 Austrian first-ascent route. Unfortunately during the descent an accident below the col cost the life of Pujol.

Antoni Sors, Agrupació Cientifco-Excusionista, Mataró, Spain

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