White Needle, on Artificial Legs, and Nun. In 1946 Major R. Berry, Captain Ralph James and Major Tom Stobart attempted to make the first ascent of Nun (7135 meters, 23,410 feet) via the east ridge. They climbed the White Needle (6550 meters, 21,490 feet) on the way but were unable to reach the main summit. In May, 1981 Major Berry’s eldest son, Steve, led a team in his father’s footsteps. Amongst the seven were Richard Berry, Steve’s brother, and Norman Croucher. Despite having two artificial legs below the knee, Croucher has climbed amongst others the Matterhorn, Eiger, Mont Blanc and Huascarân. Despite poor weather, John Margesson and Croucher reached the summit of the White Needle on June 12. Subsequently all the rest of us had to traverse this peak to reach Camp II. The first summit team on Nun of Steven Monks and Damian Carroll climbed the east ridge, traversed onto the south face to avoid a difficult section of pinnacles and cornices (the Japanese route of 1978) and reached the summit on June 16 after two bivouacs. The two Berrys repeated the route on June 19. During the third group’s attempt, after a bivouac at 22,000 feet, Croucher dropped out to give Margesson and me a better chance of making the summit, as the weather was very poor. It was a heartrending and courageous decision. As a result Margesson and I reached the summit on June 22 after another bivouac at 23,000 feet. This was probably the second ascent of the east ridge and was done alpine-style. We had no porters above Base Camp. We attempted to make the second ascent of Zaskar I, first climbed by Japanese in 1980. (See A.A.J., 1981, page 285.) This was abandoned after four of us were hit by an avalanche on the approach.

R. Barry Needle, Alpine Club