Brammah II. Guus Lambregts, Johan Taks, Gilles Boerlage, Lout Brandt, Ruud Zwart and I arrived a week late, on July 19, at our 12,000-foot Base Camp. It took one week to transport 275 kgs up the glacier, establishing Camps I and II, the latter at the western foot of Brammah II at 14,275 feet. We reconnoitered for some days before establishing Camp III at 17,225 feet, near the col west of the foresummit (6005 meters, 19,701 feet). Further on, following the 1975 Japanese route, we found a way up the northwest ridge of the foresummit and three of us placed a tent on the ridge. In the following days, Brandt and I continued to the summit, first traversing the north face of the foresummit to reach the ridge between it and Brammah II, then following this ridge and the southwest face to the summit (6425 meters, 21,079 feet), reached on August 8. We made three bivouacs: on the Brammah II ridge, 100 meters below the summit and, on the descent, again on the ridge. The weather was unsettled with regular spells of rain. The climbing was technically interesting from the moment of arrival at the northwest ridge of the foresummit.

Marco C. Boerlage, Konigklijke Nederlandsche Alpenvereniging