American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India, Ladakh-Kashmir, Arjuna South, Kijai Nala, Kishtwar Himalaya

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1982

Arjuna South, Kijai Nala, Kishtwar Himalaya. Arjuna (6230 meters, 20,440 feet) was the objective of the Klub Wysokorgórski Gdansk - Sopot-Gdynia Expedition. The climbers were Waclaw Otreba, leader, Janusz Bartos, Czech Jakubczyk, Piotr Puzyrewski, Dr. Marek Roslan, Karol Sopicki and Bogdan Urbanski. Base Camp was placed at 12,150 feet on August 24 just below the Kijai Glacier, south of Arjuna. Camp I was established at 14,450 feet on August 25 and Camp II at 16,400 feet on August 26 in the upper part of the narrow valley. On August 31 Jakubczyk, Roslan, Sopicki and Urbanski made the second ascent of P 5800 (19,029 feet) on the west side of the valley (first climbed by Poles in 1979. A.A.J., 1981, pages 284-5). On September 2 Bartos, Otreba and Puzyrewski left Camp II, hoping to climb Arjuna. They climbed a wide snow couloir, rock, then ice slopes up to 60° and mixed terrain. After two bivouacs they reached the east ridge and continued up it (2 pitches of UIAA V, 10 of II and III and ice up to 60°). They reached the south summit of Arjuna (6200 meters, 20,342 feet) on September 4. The ridge from there to the main summit was about 300 yards long and it was too late to climb it. The descent with several rappels was made on the same route with one bivouac. On September 6 Jakubczyk and Sopicki scaled the unclimbed peak of c. 5800 meters (19,029 feet), lying south of the Arjuna massif. It gave 50° to 60° ice climbing and four pitches of UIAA III and IV rock. There are attractive problems on the southwest face of the Arjuna massif with 3500-foot rock walls and buttresses. But the approach up the Kijai Nala is difficult.

Józef Nyka, Editor, Taternik, Poland

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