Koa Rong I. Our members were Mitsuru Shibata, general leader, Hitoshi Maebashi, Ikuo Nakashima, Motoyuki Kabayashi, Masaaki Sato, Syuzo Hattori, Kimikazu Ando, Miss Kimiko Hayashi, Miss Yoshiko Matsui and I as climbing leader. We climbed the southeast ridge of Koa Rong I. Camp I was established on August 5 at 16,825 feet. We crossed the glacier, fixed 1000 feet of rope on the rock wall and established Camp II on August 12. On August 14 Maebashi and Nakashima with porters Dhani Ram and Lebad Ram, supported by two others, climbed to Camp II and fixed 1250 feet of rope above it. On August 15, having left at 6:30, they were at the top of the difficulties using the fixed ropes. The summit party separated from the support group, climbed the rock ridge and snow face to reach the summit (6157 meters, 20,200 feet) at two P.M.
Yukio Miyashita, Japanese Alpine Club