AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

Asia, India, Garhwal, Shivling, South Buttress

Shivling, South Buttress. From September 27 to October 18 Karl Kosa, Ernst Machacek, Robert Glatter, Michael Fasan, Peter Hanzlik and I as leader were on the south buttress of Shivling. We got to the top of the buttress but could not reach the summit because of a shortage of technical equipment and because bad weather delayed us. Our high point was 6300 meters (20,670 feet), some 800 feet from the top. Base Camp was at 13,775 feet and Camps I, II and III were at 16,075, 17,400 and 19,000 feet. From Camp I to the top of the buttress was about 4500 feet. We were hampered by much new snow. A glacial basin below the rocky south face, hidden from view by the mountain’s spurs, makes it relatively easy to get up the lower part of the rock face. From the basin we climbed 650 feet up the side of the ridge to get to the crest of the buttress. A break on the left side high up gave access to Shivling’s summit ridge.

Günter Gruber, Österreichischer Touristenklub