American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India, Garhwal, Trisul from the West

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1982

Trisul from the West. Ferdl Schneider and I started out from Ghat with three porters and our liaison officer and ascended the Nandakini valley for four-and-a-half days through endless forests. At Base Camp I became ill with pulmonary edema and we hurried back towards Ghat. Schneider had to return to Germany, but I went back up with the liaison officer and two new porters. On May 21 I left Base Camp solo. The first terrain was not difficult but the snow was knee-deep. Up to Camp II at 22,000 feet, I kept finding bits of fixed rope (presumably left by Yugoslavs in 1976—Editor). I was pinned down in Camp II by storm; above, the terrain got much steeper. From there I believe my route was new since the fixed rope bits went up a sheet-ice ridge. I found a better route some 300 meters to the left, with some sheet-ice spots where I had to climb with both ice tools. Camp III was a tiny site. Above Camp III I rejoined the ridge. I reached the summit (7120 meters, 23,360 feet) on May 26 and shortly after arriving, I was surprised by very bad weather. I made a final bivouac 1000 feet below the summit in a snow hole and got back to Base Camp eight days after I had left it.

Anton Freudig, Deutscher Alpenverein

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.