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Asia, India, Garhwal, Changabang, South Ridge

Changabang, South Ridge. Our expedition consisted of Renato Lingua, leader, Ugo Manera, Lino Castiglia, Isidoro Meneghin, Alessandro Zuccon, Roberto Bonis, Pietro Crivellaro, Dr. Giuseppe Rocca and me. Starting on September 23 we took a week to proceed up the Rishi Ganga to Base Camp at 13,300 feet. Unfortunately Lingua had to return to Italy because of sickness. It took from October 2 to 6 to establish Camp I at 17,225 feet and from October 6 to 10 to fix the way (UIAA III, IV and IV+) and establish Camp II at 19,700 feet on the Italian Col. We prepared the route up the south ridge for 1300 feet (UIAA V, V+, Al, A2 and ice of 70° and 80°) until we joined the Japanese route on the southwest ridge. From October 16 to 18 Manera and Sastiglia climbed to the summit (6864 meters, 22,520 feet), bivouacking twice on the ascent and once on the descent. We evacuated Base Camp on October 24. The weather was consistently good. The climb presented no objective dangers. We had solid granite and very good ice.

Claudio Sant’Unione, Club Alpino Italiano