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Asia, Nepal, Dhaulagiri Solo

Dhaulagiri Solo. On June 2 the Japanese Hironobu Kamuro completed an alpine-style solo ascent of Dhaulagiri without oxygen on the northeast ridge, the normal route. Kamuro was supported by Dr. Makoto Hara’s High Mountains Research Institute of Nagoya. He had worked for four years with the institute and had been on all of Dr. Hara’s experimental expeditions. This climb was designed to prove Dr. Hara’s acclimatization theories. This was not planned as a solo climb, but Kamuro’s companion had to return to Japan and left him with only Base Camp manager Nobuko Takemoto and Sherpa Pasang. He made an acclimatization climb of a 6000er near Dhampus Pass on May 19 and the next day met the Anglo-Canadian party, who told him that they had left fixed rope on the ridge up to the upper part. They crossed the French Pass and set up Base Camp at 16,400 feet. Pasang accompanied Kamuro to 18,750 feet on the northeast col on May 28. Kamuro set out with a week’s food alone on the 29th. He bivouacked at 21,150, 23,950 and 24,950 feet, rested on June 1 and on June 2 set out for the top at six A.M., reaching the summit only at 6:30 P.M. He returned to the 24,950-foot bivouac aided by fixed ropes. He got back to the northeast col on June 4. More details are found in Iwa To Yuki, N° 84, pages 108-9 with photographs between pages 42 and 50.