Asia, Nepal, Nilgiri North

Publication Year: 1982.

Nilgiri North. We established Base Camp at 12,650 feet north of Tilicho West on April 3. After reconnaissance, on April 7 we placed Camp I at 15,900 feet on the north ridge of Tilicho West. We prepared the route to Camp II with 3500 feet of fixed rope on snow and rotten rock. This camp at 18,600 feet was established on April 14. There was very steep going on snow to Camp III, set up on April 24 at 20,350 feet, below the summit of Tilicho West (6492 meters, 21,300 feet). From Tilicho West a thin ridge leads for 2½ miles west to Nilgiri North over two subsidiary peaks. Our task was to attack it alpine-style. On April 30 Etsuo Hino, Toyohumi Miyazaki and Ang Pasang left Base Camp, followed a day later by Kaoru Takao, Takeshi Hayashida, Taeko Noda, Takayoshi Kawata and me, the expedition’s leader. The first attack team passed through Camp III on May 2 and bivouacked beyond the top of Tilicho West. They continued along the ridge, followed by us in support. On May 6 there was a blizzard and we could not move. On May 7 Pasang turned back but Hino and Miyazaki pushed forward and in 14 hours got to the summit of Nilgiri North (7061 meters, 23,165 feet) at 6:55 P.M. After a miserable bivouac at 21,325 feet, they were met by us of the support party. On May 10 we were all back at Camp III and on May 12 in Base Camp.

Nobuo Shiaishi, Fukuoka Glacier Climbers Club, Japan