American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Annapurna II and IV Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1982

Annapurna II and IV Attempt. After ten days of approach, the first of our 19-man expedition arrived at Base Camp at Pisang at 12,475 feet. On a rainy September 7 the second group arrived, many of them sick. On the 8th some climbers got to 17,250 feet and established Camp I on a moraine opposite the north face of Annapurna II. A provisional camp was set up on September 16 at the foot of the spur that leads to the Dome and from there to Annapurna II. It took two days to fix ropes up to 18,975 feet, where we placed Camp II. On September 23 Camp III was placed at 21,000 feet. We intended that this camp should be comfortable enough to allow us to get along the 3-mile-long ridge to Annapurna II. When everything seemed ready for the climb, on September 26 it began to snow and it kept on for 72 hours. More than 10 feet of snow fell at Camp III. In a lull on September 30, all descended to Base Camp. On October 2 we began to climb again, but we now turned our efforts to Annapurna IV. Equipment and fixed rope had to be dug out. By the 7th we were back at Camp III. On October 9 we set up Camp IV at 22,650 feet. On the 10th the first group got to within 650 feet of the top of Annapurna IV but strong winds drove them back. That night the winds became even stronger and the situation of those high became precarious. It was necessary to give up. With much risk and fatigue, climbers and Sherpas returned to Base Camp and by a miracle we all got off safely.

Arturo Bergamaschi, Club Alpino Italiano

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