American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Ganesh III, First Ascent, North Ridge

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1982

Ganesh III, First Ascent, North Ridge. Ganesh III had unsuccessfully been attempted six times before our expedition: 1953, spring, New Zealanders, north ridge to 18,000 feet; 1954, spring, Japanese, northwest ridge; 1971, spring, Japanese, northeast spur to 17,700 feet; 1980, spring, Japanese, south ridge to 22,150 feet; 1980, fall, Japanese, northeast spur to 18,375 feet; and 1981, spring, Japanese, south ridge to 22,300 feet. Our Nepalese-German expedition was composed of my wife Dietlinde, Ang Chappal, Nga Temba, Nyma Tensing and me. Our route was on the north ridge (UIAA difficulty III, IV, V) and north face (IV and V). We established camps as follows: Base Camp, Camp I, II and III at 12,800, 16,400, 18,700 and 20,675 feet on September 9, 21, and 29 and October 7 respectively. On October 16 Ang Chappal, Nga Temba, Nyma Tensing and I, accompanied by members of the Nepalese-Japanese Kyushu Dental College expedition, Nobuhide Kuwahara, Joji Nakamura, Nobuhiro Hase, Tendi Sherpa and Kirke Sherpa, reached the summit (7132 meters, 23,400 feet) on October 16. The other expedition had climbed the northeast spur. Our routes met at Camp III. From there, both expeditions took the same route on the north face.

Hermann Warth, Deutscher Alpenverein

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