Dorje Lhakpa. This joint Nepalese-Japanese expedition led by Kunio Kataoka made the first authorized ascent of Dorje Lhakpa (6990 meters, 22,933 feet), though there are rumors that it had been previously climbed without permission. The expedition’s original three Nepalese, all Sherpas, left the mountain soon after Camp II was established in late September, just before the big storm. They complained of the food. The leader went to Kathmandu and replaced them with Pemba Tsering. The expedition had two camps on the west ridge. The summit was reached on October 18 by two parties. In the first group were Pemba Tsering, Kazu- nari Murakami and Eiichi Shingyoji and in the second were Kataoka and Makoto Anbe. The expedition’s other member, Tomohiro Uchimura in the second party reached 100 meters below the top when he became too tired to go on and descended with the first group.

Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club and Elizabeth Hawley