American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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Asia, Nepal, Lhotse, Bulgarian Expedition

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1982

Lhotse, Bulgarian Expedition. The Bulgarians had 18 members and seven Sherpas under the leadership of Christo Ivanov Prodanov. They set up their Khumbu Base Camp on March 23. Camps were established at 19,900, 22,300, 24,125 and 26,100 feet between April 1 and 27 in changeable weather. On April 30 Prodanov set out from Camp IV up the Reiss couloir without oxygen. As he neared the summit, the weather deteriorated with wind, snowfall and lightning. He therefore avoided the ridge and climbed the face to the summit. Ognian Pretrov Baldshijski and Metodi Stefanov Savov had started out in the morning with him but were badly delayed by difficulties with their oxygen equipment and turned back when the weather went sour. This was the fifth expedition to climb the mountain and Prodanov was the 25th climber to reach the summit.

Józef Nyka, Editor, Taternik, Poland

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