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Asia, Nepal, Ama Dablam

Ama Dablam. Our expedition made the third ascent of the south ridge of Ama Dablam and the sixth of the mountain. We were Joan Massons, leader, Jordi Colomer, Ramón Bramona, Dr. Josep Barrachina, Emili Civis, Alex Alom, Lluis López, the Frenchman Jean Clémenson and I. We left Barcelona on March 14 and bought most of our food in Kathmandu. On the 19th we flew to Lukla. We placed Base Camp on March 28 at 16,400 feet at the foot of the south ridge. There was no water. We installed Camp I at 18,700 feet at the beginning of the difficulties on April 3. A provisional Camp II was placed on April 9 on a little glacier at the bottom of the Yellow Tower at 19,350 feet. On the 15th we established the real Camp II at 19,525 feet on the Red Tower. After exposed mixed climbing on rock of a very secure nature, we reached the “mushroom” zone and the last important difficulty, a vertical sérac which gave access to a hanging glacier at 20,600 feet, where we placed Camp III. From there to the 22,295-foot (6856- meter) summit, half of the climbing was difficult. It took ten hours. The first team on April 28 was Civis, Barrachina and I with Sherpas Lhakpa Dorje, Tenzing Tashi and Ang Danu. On May 3 Alom, Clémenson, Bramona and López got to the top. We fixed 6500 feet of 7mm line.

Jordi Pons, Centre Excursionista de Catalunya