Aconcagua, North Face Variation. On January 22, 1982, from a high camp at 20,500 feet on a rock outcrop north of the Polish Glacier, Marty Hoey, George Dunn, Dick Bass, Frank Wells, Chuck Goldmark and I attempted a direct variation up the glacier. Due to unfavorable ice conditions, however, we traversed off the glacier to the north. From the 21,300-foot level, Hoey and Dunn made a partial girdle traverse to the north, and climbed a steep 1000-foot snow face before completing their new variation on the normal route to the summit. The next day Bass and I climbed to the summit via the Polish Glacier. As we were without bivouac gear, a sudden storm on the descent complicated our return. Dunn, who stayed behind the others, was of great assistance in directing us toward camp through the blowing snow and whiteout conditions.