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South America, Argentina, Aconcagua, North Face Variation

Aconcagua, North Face Variation. On January 22, 1982, from a high camp at 20,500 feet on a rock outcrop north of the Polish Glacier, Marty Hoey, George Dunn, Dick Bass, Frank Wells, Chuck Goldmark and I attempted a direct variation up the glacier. Due to unfavorable ice conditions, however, we traversed off the glacier to the north. From the 21,300-foot level, Hoey and Dunn made a partial girdle traverse to the north, and climbed a steep 1000-foot snow face before completing their new variation on the normal route to the summit. The next day Bass and I climbed to the summit via the Polish Glacier. As we were without bivouac gear, a sudden storm on the descent complicated our return. Dunn, who stayed behind the others, was of great assistance in directing us toward camp through the blowing snow and whiteout conditions.

James Wickwire