South America, Argentina, Aconcagua, South Face, Winter Ascent

Publication Year: 1982.

Aconcagua South Face, Winter Ascent. A small Japanese group of the Tokyo club, U-Tan, managed to accomplish the first ascent of the famous south face on August 16 at the peak of the Southern Hemisphere winter. Participants were Tsuneo Hasegawa, leader, Yoshihumi Miyazi, Shigeto Ogura, Hiroshi Uchiyama and the woman Masami Shinomiya. The expedition used skis to transport equipment to the base of the face (which the leader Hasegawa had ascended the previous summer). Three camps were placed on the face and from the third, with two additional bivouacs, Hasegawa climbed alone, combining the French 1954 route and the Messner 1974 variant. He aimed at the ridge between the two summits of Aconcagua and then reached the main one. The face was descended on August 17 by the whole group, which again used skis to return to Puente del Inca.

Humberto Barrera, Club Andino de Chile, Santiago