American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash, Jirishanca, Southwest Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1982

Jirishanca, Southwest Face. A French expedition climbed, though not to the summit, the southwest face of Jirishanca, repeating the route first climbed by Dean Caldwell and Jon Bowlin in 1971. They were plagued by earthquakes which rendered the slopes particularly likely to avalanche. On June 19 Gérard Sibué, Jean-Marc Falcoz and Pierre Cinquin left their Camp II shortly after midnight and climbed the 60° to 70° snow and ice slope. Instead of continuing straight up through the rock bands directly toward the summit, they traversed slightly left, following the Caldwell-Bowlin route. When they reached the Cassin route on the west ridge at eleven A.M., they felt that the snow on the upper slopes was too unstable to continue. They stopped there, still a number of rope-lengths from the summit. They made 15 rappels on the descent down the face. Sibué states on June 25, with a companion, he made a new ice route on Rasac from the east, but unfortunately we have not received a reply to explain where the route went.

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