American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash, Jirishanca, East Ridge

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1982

Jirishanca, East Ridge. The east ridge of Jirishanca was first attempted unsuccessfully by Frenchmen Stéphane Dewèze, Antoine Noury and Peruvian Rodrigo Callupe. The two Frenchmen made a second attempt. After six days on the ridge, on steep, soft snow, on delicate mixed climbing or on overhanging ice which called for artificial aid, they were about 300 feet from the summit and above the difficulties when one of their packs ripped apart. Their tent, bivouac gear and climbing gear plunged downward. They were forced to descend immediately, Noury without crampons and Dewèze without an ice axe.

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