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South America, Peru, Huascarán Norte, Northeast Buttress Variant, 1980

Huascarán Norte, Northeast Buttress Variant, 1980. On June 21, 1980 J-M. Boucansaud and I completed a variant of the French route of 1973 led by Maurice Barrard on the lovely northeast buttress of Huascarán Norte. The first three rope-lengths were in common with the previous route. We kept to the left of the Barrard route for another five pitches of UIAA IV and V difficulty on fine granite on the edge of the buttress before joining the earlier route at 19,000 feet. Another pitch of ice, one of easy rock and five on the icy east ridge took us to the summit.

Yves Astier, Club Alpin Français