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South America, Peru, Toqllaraju West Face, Ranrapallaca, North Face, Allpamayo Southwest Face, and Other Peaks

Toqllaraju, West Face; Ranrapallca, North Face; Allpamayo, Southwest Face; and Other Peaks. After I had soloed Urus, Pat Ellinwood and I climbed the west face of Toqllaraju. The route was on 50° water-ice and névé for about 1200 feet, at which point we traversed left to the ordinary route. The north face of Ranrapallca was attractive. I teamed up with a British friend, my two companions having gastrointestinal problems. After a high bivouac on the moraine, we climbed the ice-and-snow route in three hours. Ellinwood and I approached Allpamayo from the Santa Cruz valley. From a camp on the Allpamayo-Kitaraju col, we climbed the beautiful, fluted southwest face of Allpamayo. We climbed a runnel that was mostly 50° but occasionally bulged to 75°. Ellinwood, Pete Metcalf and I climbed the “Shield,” a route just south of the Garganta route on Huascarán. The Shield rises some 1200 feet at 50° and then, at its top, we followed an icy arête to the summit. Although these are all excellent climbs, I believe that all had been previously, though not often, climbed.

Peter Athans*

* Recipient of an American Alpine Club Climbing Fellowship Grant.