American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Peaks on the Cashan Ridge and Other Peaks, 1980

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1982

Peaks on the Cashan Ridge and Other Peaks, 1980. Ascents of Allpamayo and Kitaraju with James O’Neill prepared me for late-season soloing in August, 1980 after the departure of my partner. Reconnaissance of the west face of Huantsán from the Quebrada Rajucolta prompted me to investigate a more prudent line on Cashan Este. After reaching the glacier at the base of that peak, I decided it looked uninteresting and so I began instead by climbing the steep granite of the north-northwest face of the second minor summit east of Cashan Oeste. After I reached the summit, unable to downclimb reasonably, I was compelled to move east toward Cashan Este. The climbing on the ridge was delicate and exposed, with the conditions varying from waist-deep corn snow to towers of blue water ice. I spent the night en route, without sleeping gear or food, and reached the summit of Cashan Este early on the second day. I descended the northeast face. The climb provided some of the most interesting, gymnastic and thought-provoking problems I have yet encountered in climbing ice. In mid-September I climbed Chopicalqui via the west ridge. Beginning in mid-morning from 16,000 feet, I made the summit by sunset and descended through the séracs and ice forms of the Llanganuco Glacier by moonlight. Finally, I reached the top of Huascarán Sur via the Garganta on September 30, 1980 after several days of climbing.

Peter J. Millar, Unaffiliated

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