American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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North America, Greenland, East Greenland, Kronprins Frederiks Bjerge,

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1982

Kronprins Frederiks Bjerge, East Greenland. In June we visited the east coat of Greenland. We were climbing about 100 miles northeast of Angmagssalik in the Kronprins Frederiks Bjerge. We had Base Camp at 66° 59' N and 35° 40' W on the glacier at the foot of the peaks at 7500 feet. We were Marko Grad, Janko Kos, Franc Vrankar, Miro Štebe, Dr. Matjaž Veselko, his brother Borut Veselko and I as leader. We climbed 25 peaks from 9200 to 11,007 feet in altitude. The most important climbs follow: P 3355 (11,007 feet) on June 10 by Grad, Štebe (rock of UIAA V difficulty; ice 50° to 60°), P 3340 (10,958 feet) on June 10 by Klemenc, Kos (V+; 45° to 65°), P 3200 (10,499 feet) on June 18 by Matjaž and Borut Veselko, Vrankar (the most difficult peak climbed by the expedition; VI; 50°), P 3020 (9908 feet) on June 18 by Grad, Štebe, P 3050 (10,007 feet) on June 18 by Klemenc, Kos (V+; 40°), P 3070 (10,072 feet) by Klemenc, Kos (45°–60°), and P 2960 (9711 feet) on June 5 by Grad, Štebe (V; 45°–50°). The ice conditions were perfect with temperatures from 0° to –20° C. It was windy most of the time. It snowed on four days. Problems occurred when the helicopter did not pick us up on the arranged date. After nine days of waiting in good weather, it finally landed. We had been on very short rations.

Stane Klemenc, Planiska Zveza Slovenije, Yugoslavia

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