American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Canadian Arctic, Baffin Island, Asgard and Friya

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1982

Asgard and Friya, Baffin Island. Mike Pelchat, Jeff Tirey, Jack Corbin and I flew to Pangnirtung on April 22. By April 26, Base Camp was established at the intersection of the Caribou and Kings Highway Glaciers. The Swiss Route on Mount Asgard was climbed on April 27. We ascended the north pillar from the col via a traverse of a shallow snow-filled cirque. This snowfield was very unstable and prone to slab avalanche. We gained the col by 80 feet of steep mixed climbing. Above the col, despite cold temperatures, climbing was moderate and on good rock. Round trip was 22 hours from Base Camp. On April 30, Pelchat and I climbed a new route (5.8, A1) the west face of Friya, opposite the Kings Parade Glacier. This route ascends a steep broken ramp to the right of the summit. We had moderately difficult mixed climbing for two pitches followed by a short ice-filled dihedral (A1). Eight pitches of snow and ice, broken by three rock bands, led to the fourth-class summit ridge. Round trip was 18 hours from Base Camp. On the same day Corbin and Tirey retreated from below the summit of Mount Adluk due to very unstable snow conditions.

James Sevigny, Unaffiliated

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