American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Canadian Arctic, Mount Battle Solo

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1982

Mount Battle Solo. I climbed Mount Battle (4420 feet) solo to photograph the peaks and glaciers around the Pangnirtung Pass. It is surrounded by the Rundle Glacier on the east, the Highway Glacier on the north and the Turner Glacier on the west. The first few thousand feet on the north slope were on 45° loose rock, which constantly gave way. To avoid risk of a rock slide, I trudged up deep snow where possible. After reaching the ridge, I proceeded southwest along it to the vertical slabs. Finally after an hour’s search, I found a route. Several times I had to remove my pack and throw it upward onto ledges to avoid the many overhangs. Near the summit, the vertical faces changed abruptly into a relatively flat plateau covered by loose boulders. Eight hours after starting, I reached the top, marked by a stone cairn and a bleached caribou antler.

Roy I. Hamaguchi, Canada

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